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 03-17-2003, 15:21 Post: 51337
Murf



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 Increasing door height to fit tractor

Another way it could be done is with an offset bearing structure. I'm not sure how I'm going to explain this in less than three pages, but here goes. All of the following is a) presuming that your door is NOT on the gable end of the building, and that the roof slopes down to the door from a ridge, and b) it is strictly personal advise and not to be construed as a professional opinion, consult a professional in your area before attempting any structural changes, sorry waiver required.

You can move the load-bearing wall INTO the garage, and 'uphill' if you will, since the rafters, and therefore the load, rises with the roof. Moving the support further in to meet the load at a higher point in the roof will negate the need for such a deep header over the door itself, thus (hopefully) allowing you a little more clearance and allowing you to increase the height of the opening. Tip of the day, if this works and you are able to increase the height of the opening, do NOT buy a new door, simply raise the tracks by the same distance as the opening was increased, then attach an extension of the same size above the top panel, this way the door will still match any others it will just have an aditional section above that opens.

Best of luck.






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 03-18-2003, 07:48 Post: 51384
Murf



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 Increasing door height to fit tractor

Tom, Kay, (and others) sorry but in my quest for brevity I may have made the description a little too brief for clarity.

The idea is to replicate the existing header, just further inside the structure, and higher up, supported vertically by beams, and braced on a (hopefully) 45 degree angle back further into the structure and also back out to the original wall to prevent the new header from possibly kicking out. The method of attachment is usually to cut wedges out of dimensional lumber (2 x ?'s, depending on roof pitch) which are placed on top of the new header to take up the gap between header and rafter. These wedges are in turn laminated to the header by plywood strips, and joist hangers on top of that, in some areas tornado fastners (hold-downs) may also be required, check your local building code. Do not notch the header or the rafters as this would weaken them, use mechanical fasteners only to join the two components together.

If the beam is true and level and all rafters do not meet it equally, check the structural integrity of the roof itself, all rafters must run in the same plane in order for them to be holding only their proportionate amount of the roof loading, this is the time to fix any other problems.

Best of luck.






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